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Australian Perfume & Cosmetic Companies
The history of Australian perfume companies differs to that of Britain and Europe. Most Australian companies evolved from chemical or even food manufacturers. Tracing their history is difficult and is ongoing with details added if and when found, often by chance. Australians are a strange group, we are very proud of our country and these days we try to buy Australian made goods whenever possible, however for most of our first 200 years we seemed to think that anything made in Australia was inferior to anything made overseas. I'm not sure when but probably from Federation, 1900, the government placed duties of varying amounts on all overseas goods imported into the country. In the perfume and cosmetics industry this was both good and bad as the locally made items were a little cheaper than the imported items but bad because many of the ingredients used in the manufacture were imported and as they were generally considered to be more a luxury item than a necessity the tariffs were quite high. Manufacturers of perfumes and cosmetics tried using European sounding names to trick the local market into thinking the product was imported, e.g. Parviola and Laroona. They had limited success. Most Australian perfume and cosmetics were priced at the lower end of the market. Some companies such as F H Faulding had an excellent reputation and their lavender products seemed to fare quite well against the English companies Yardley and Potter & Moore. In the early to mid 20th century many French fashion houses began to produce their own fragrances however this was not the case in Australia. There was however one fashion house, Prue Acton, who did produce a range of perfumes and cosmetics with limited success. Prue Acton was Australia’s answer to Britain’s Mary Quant and produced mid-range, well-made clothing for trendy Australian girls of the swinging sixties. I had a couple of gorgeous Prue Acton dresses; I wish I still had them now! Prue Acton’s fragrances and cosmetics fall slightly outside my collection range which is up to about 1960 but I will seek out a few for history’s sake. Unfortunately the cost of producing her range of cosmetics which were also good quality to a small market forced the closure of the cosmetics side of the business. These days Australian perfumes and cosmetics can and do hold their own in the local market although few if any see international success.
The first mention of Judith Aden cosmetics that I have found is around 1927. The brand seems to have been sold exclusively in Woolworths stores. These were not supermarkets as Woolworths is today they were called a "variety" store. I remember one in my local shopping centre and there were aisles with ladies or girls standing in between counters of goods which were laid in little glass sections along the tops of the counters, it's a bit hard to explain. The Judith Aden name was not on any perfume, just cosmetics, nail enamels, hair care and skincare products. The last mention that I can find of the products is in the late 1960s. Woolworths would not have made the products but they would have been made for Woolworths by another Australian cosmetic company.
Laroona............. The Laroona Perfume Proprietary was established around 1898 and was located in Flinders Lane in central Melbourne. Towards the end of 1918 the company announced plans to build a new factory in Burnley, part of Richmond, an inner suburb of Melbourne. The new factory was estimated to cost £5000 ($10,000) and would employ up to 100 people. The site for the new factory was on the corner of Barkly Avenue and Burnley Street and would be around 90ft x 100ft (about 28 metres x 30metres) of one storey with basement. This building was to be very modern with laboratory, show room, packing and export room, with departments for perfumery, powders and soaps as well as fancy box making. With WW1 recently ended the company felt that this was the right time to expand their business. Increased demand was expected for their products which they believed were of a high standard. The Laroona eau-de-cologne was one of their most popular lines with large and increasing sales. (See an example in the collection) Newspaper reports of the time stated that the company produced a range of around 300 items, “perfumes of various kinds, toilet soaps and toilet articles of endless variety”. The directors of the company at that time were Mr J. Grout and Mr J.H. Simpson and interestingly both of those surnames are connected with other perfume companies operating in Australia in the first half of the 20th Century. Are they the same people? Further research needed. Known fragrances of this comany
A P Miller...... From around February 1881 small advertisements for Tasma Perfume produced by Mr A P Miller, manufacturing chemist of Murray Street, Hobart, Tasmania appeared in Tasmanian papers. Described as "A rich and elegant perfume for the toilet," the perfume came in several sizes starting at a modest 2s (the equivalent of 20c today) up to a crystal decanter for 17/6, ($1.75) which would probably have been quite expensive at the time. A description of a gift presentation of the perfume was included in an article in the Hobart Mercury of 13 September 1881 "We yesterday had the pleasure of inspecting at Mr. A. P Miller's establishment a number of light little perfume caskets which, intended as presents for Tasmanians of note now at home, may fairly be called works of art. They are made from selected pieces of muskwood and Huon pine, beautifully marked, highly polished, fitted with lock and key, lined and padded inside with blue silk velvet. Each box contains a cut-glass decantar, filled with the new perfume Tasma. Neatly tied on with blue ribbon, and suspended from the neck by silk cord is a small card, on which is written the name and date, surrounded by a Japanese border in bronze. The whole forms a neat and thoroughly Tasmanian souvenir. Mr Geo Browne, who travels to England, via Torres Straits and Singapore, had kindly promised to take charge of them, but they were not finished in time. They will, therefore, be forwarded to him at Singapore by the next steamer leaving for Sydney." Known fragrances of this company
Murphy Liebert & Co........ This Sydney company was primarily a chemical company and amongst other products produced products such as insect repellant for the Australian Army during WW2. The name Lascelle may have been chosen for two reasons, firstly it sounds French and secondly it was the name of Queen Elizabeth's II cousin, George Lascelles, 7th Duke of Harewood who inherited his title in 1947. Their perfume products look to have been aimed at the bottom end of the market. Known fragrances of this company
Parviola Company.............. The "Parviola Company" was the name of the perfume branch of a well known Melbourne company, Blogg Bros. I think I agree that Parviola Perfumes is a better name than Blogg Perfumes. Blogg Bros. were pioneers in the extraction of perfume from Australian native flowers and plants, in particular wattle blossom and boronia. Large quantities of these extracts were exported overseas. Between 1895 and 1900 the company held the warrant as "Official Perfumer to the Governor of Victoria", Lord Brassey. Mr John Kendrick Blogg was born in Toronto, Canada in 1851. He studied chemistry at Toronto University before becoming a junior partner in his uncle's firm of dispensing chemists. He left Canada and arrived in Melbourne in 1877 and in 1884 established a partnership with Herbert Grist as manufacturing chemists based in Flinders Lane in Melbourne. In 1884 he registered his own company, J.K. Blogg & Co. Ltd with his factory in Moray Street, South Melbourne. In 1892 the name changed again to Blogg Bros. with the headquarters at 15 - 17 St. James Street, Melbourne although the perfume side of the business remained in Flinders Lane. In 1899 a fire in premises adjacent to the premises of Blogg Bros. caught fire but it appears that the Blogg Bros premises was relatively unscathed. By 1906 the company was operating from Spencer Street, Melbourne. 17 February 1899 Argus FIRE IN MELBOURNE £40,000 Damage.
MELBOURNE, Friday. A fire which occurred yesterday at Henty's Free Stores, in Flinders-lane, proved more disastrous than was at first expected. The premises were gutted and damage to the extent of £40,000 was done. The origin of the outbreak is still unknown; it is, however, believed that the flames broke out in some chemicals on the ground floor. The "flames" leaped rapidly- and spread to the fourth floor; there was grave danger also that the premises of Blogg Bros., perfume manufacturers, and of the big Falstaff restaurant would be consumed. The firemen worked splendidly, however, and confined the flames to the Free Stores. So well did they battle that the flames did not even reach Henty's bond, which comprises the other part of the building. The water supply was very poor, and there were loud complaints from the fire-fighters. Blogg Bros. exhibited at the A.N.A. Exhubition in Melbourne in 1906. A report in The Daily News, of Perth, W.A. 14 February 1906 included a long article about many of the Blogg Bros products. This is the section relating to their perfumes. POPULAR PERFUMERY. Perfumery is a separate and distinct manufacture of this firm, Blogg Bros. being the largest and most important manufacturers of those goods in Australia. One glance at the magnificent style in which these goods are packed is almost sufficient to show that they are superior enough to paralyse competition. One of the firm's specialities' in perfumes is ''Love's Bouquet." Blogg Bros, offered £30 to any hospital named by any importer who could produce (at any price) a perfume that could be said to be better than this delightful scent. It has been declared by "Our Nell" to be the most refreshing perfume obtainable. Another special line is the firm's Violet Toilet Soap, which will compare favorably with the imported article. Mr. E. B. Clarton, a representative of Messrs. Blogg Bros., is at present staying at the Palace Hotel. Mr. Clarton has placed his firm's lines in Africa, Japan, and the East, and in all the Australian States. He will shortly proceed to England, and from thence to the United States and Canada; in each of which places it is the intention of Messrs. Blogg Bros, to erect factories for the manufacture of their goods.
note...."Our Nell" was Australian stage star Nellie Stewart who was well known for her Gilbert & Sullivan and operetta roles. The following article from the Launceston, Tasmania Examiner 27 September 1907 gives us an insight into the manufacture of Parviola Perfumes. Examiner (Launceston) 27 September 1907 THE SCENT OF THE FLOWERS - HOW PERFUME IS MADE. The bouquet of a fine perfume is most pleasant after one has smelt to the centre of a loaf of freshly-cooked bread. It is then that the senses are most keen. Perfumery chemists always observe the practice when making delicate tests. And who has not been struck with the pungency of a scented handkerchief when seated at a dinner-table? Mr. Blogg, sen., is the father of the perfumery industry in Australia. It has been an uphill fight, but he has at last triumphed. Oftentimes people purchase his wares and sing their praises. They see "Parviola Company" on the bottle, and believe it to be a Parisian preparation. "Parviola Company" means Blogg Brothers." Other manufacturers have had to fight a prejudice against colonial goods with the same weapons. But Blogg Brothers now come out into the open with scents that are distilled from purely Australian flowers, wattle-blossom and boronia, for instance. A Victorian Government expert once told a Royal Commission that scent could not be extracted from wattle-blossom. Mr. Blogg undertook to disprove the assertion, and succeeded after labouring for a month. To-day wattle-blossom is one of the popular scents in Melbourne. Boronia has also been distilled with great success. The flowers used at the factory come from the nurseries at Wandin and Brighton, and from many private gardens. According as the blooms are known to yield their oils so they are variously treated. Lavender is distilled with water. When the oil of the flower has floated to the surface it is separated from the water and dissolved in spirits of wine, to which is added a small quantity of animal musk. The musk gives "wings" to the scene. Without it the perfume could not be "toned off and rounded down" so nicely. Daffodils are macerated in highly mineralised oil at a temperature of 80deg. Another oil is added, and it "marries" the oil of the flower. The combination is then steeped in alcohol 60 per cent, over proof, when the partnership becomes disolved and the scent freed. A still full of blooms will yield but a tiny measure of scent. It takes 3cwt. of roses to give one-eighth of an ounce of attar of roses. There are many fashionable scents which can be manufactured, notably lilac and violet. One of the principal constituents in violet scent is orris-root (Sweet Flag lily). Then Eau de Cologne is made up in more ways than one. But the most favoured recipe is orange blossom, rosemary, and lemon. "Love Bouquet" is a combination of the rose, jasmine, and other flowers. Perfumes that cannot be manufactured are rose, jasmine, lavender, and boronia. The chemist labels them "elementary" scents. Once having left the "still-room," the first impression one forms of a scent factory is that of a huge fancy goods store. It would seem that the perfume will not sell as a mere article of commerce. It must be put up in handsome bottles, graced with pretty ribbons and artistic labels, and packed in satin-lined, picture decked boxes. Ornaments specially designed to hold a bottle of scent are imported in hundreds. In preparation for the Christmas season Blogg Brothers are busy in their fancy goods store just now. Neat-handed girls are entrusted with this work. They tie a ribbon round the neck of a little cut-glass-bottle with as much care as if it was a child being dressed to go out. It is the beautifying of the bottles that makes the industry such a difficult one to progress within Australia. All the accessories have to be imported. And they are all heavily dutiable. The Blogg Bros. company manufactured a number of different household products. Argus Sauce, similar to worcestershire was popular as were the other products which included Ontario laundry blue, Snow White baking powder and Sunshine boot blacking. In addition to these there was a range of inks, glues, sauces and essences, John Kendrick Blogg was an extremely interesting man. He wrote poetry and hymns, submitting some of his poetry to the Bulletin magazine under a pseudonym. He was a noted wood carver and in 1915 carved a wooden casket for King Albert of Belgium. A sculptured panel he had carved was presented to the Prince of Wales when he visited Melbourne in 1920. J K Blogg died in 1936. Known fragrances of this company
Perfecta Toilet Company Pty Ltd........ No, not a manufacturer of toilet cisterns but another almost unknown cosmetic company. The company's products were usually sold under the name "Le Raimon" and exhibited under that name at the "The Argus" (a daily newspaper in Melbourne), 20th Century Exhibition, held at New Wembley Court in Elizabeth Street, Melbourne in 1938. Their exhibit was described as one of the most attractive of the exhibition. Perfecta also produced Rosi Carmette face powder, rouge and vanishing cream. Rosi Carnette is another example of a local manufacturer using a more European sounding name. The company had it's business premises in suburban East Brunswick and was first established around 1927. Around 85 different products were produced at the factory including face powder in 14 different shades.
Simpsons...... To date I have not been able to find any details of this company. They seem to have been quite prolific as a variety of items appear every now and then. They made facepowders as well as perfumes, bath salts and other general perfumery items. I think the company was based in Melbourne.
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